Windward Leeward

Last night the forecast for today predicted wind from the SSW at 39 mph. That's too much to sail in, much less ride a bike. So I lay awake fretting and worrying, expecting the worst in the exaggerated way of sleeplessness.

So when we rolled out into another beautiful, still morning, I was more optimistic. In fact the first 15 miles or so of the ride were really cool. We rode along a high spine above a deep canyon on both sides. Eventually we dropped steeply into the canyon, which only meant that we had to climb steeply out the other side. This was all just to soften up our legs so they would be worthless for the rest of the day.

We caught the sun rising over the canyon

A steep drop into the canyon

Looking down after the climb out of the canyon. The road snakes up from far below.

After 27 pretty hard miles we reached Escalante. We stopped at grocery for snacks and sandwiches. They had no sandwiches, no trash cans to throw away our banana peels, and no restrooms. Three strikes and you're out. So we went down the street to the convenience store.

After Escalante the threatened wind started cranking up. For the next 18 miles we climbed 1500' up a long false flat directly into the wind. It was brutal. As we were grinding away the wives drove by on their way to Bryce Canyon and snapped some photos. I'm pretty sure I was not smiling.

We stopped at the top and ate the convenience store sandwiches, which were pretty good. The descent was tricky due to the strong winds.

Finally, at mile 61, we reached Cannonville, where we made a right turn to the north. It felt just like rounding the weather mark after a punishing windward leg. Sheet out and let 'er fly!

We were climbing again but the tailwind made it more tolerable. Still, we were both wasted already from the morning climbs and upwind slogging.

After Tropic we went through part of Bryce Canyon National Park and saw a few of the postcard rock formations that make it famous.

The climb topped out at 7800 feet, and flattened out on a long, high plateau. At that point the wind was from the left at probably 25 mph which made for a viscious crosswind.

On the plateau and for about half the descent into Panguich there is a bike path along the highway. Curious, but welcome -- except for the constant expansion joints in the pavement that make for a rather uncomfortable ride.

Even the bike path has descent signs

After the bike path ended the rest of the descent on the higway was scary and treacherous due to the strong crosswinds. It was all we could do to control our bikes and get down safely.

Finally we pulled into Panguich at 4:15 PM, one of our latest arrivals yet. It was a brutally hard day and we are both wiped out. But overall the last three days, along Utah Scenic Byways 24 and 12, have been absolutely spectacular. If you ever get a chance to drive it, or better yet ride it, I highly recommend it.

The liquor customs in Utah are night and day compared to, say, Colorado, or the rest of the civilized world. When we asked the motel clerk where we could get beer he just shook his head. The restaurant we are in serves beer (3.2), but if you want more than one the manager has to approve it.

Today's ride: 95 miles, 7 hours riding, 6150 feet of climbing, and a hard-fought battle with the wind. But we are here. I'm pretty sure I will sleep better tonight.